Decreasing is simply the term for not increasing any more and therefore not making your project any wider/taller on that edge. You can also think of decreasing like “reducing.” As in, you’re reducing each row by one tile. I was intrigued by the look of C2C and the gorgeous designs that could be created with it.

Your rows stay the same length, but they shift over as you knit. Work this section until your blanket is the desired length on the long edge. If you’re looking for a gift to make for a loved one’s baby shower, then this baby blanket is a great idea! This easy pattern looks so soft and comfortable, and the diagonal pattern is very pretty. Many of the C2C patterns have a square or rectangular design.

Learn how to corner to corner crochet beginning with the basic increase stitch. Browse all our free corner to corner patterns for lots of ideas and inspiration. Here are more ideas for adding creative borders to finish your corner to corner projects.

Melissa from Loveable Loops has a variety of free corner to corner patterns made with individual blocks. These are perfect more portable C2C projects. It’s also possible to crochet corner to corner using popcorn or bobble stitches. These squishy stitches can add a ton of texture when used to accent classic double crochet C2C. This tutorial will show you how to crochet C2C puff stitches.

You can do this by “carrying” the yarn over to the next section where you’ll use it. To carry the yarn, lay the old color parallel to the row you’re working crochet sunflower bag on and crochet over it to hide it. Changing colors in C2C crochet gets a little trickier when you’re following a pattern made with many different colors.

Free Crochet Pattern for how to crochet a lightweight geometric rectangle shawl perfect for cool Summer nights. Finish your project by cutting your yarn, leaving a long tail, and pulling through your last worked stitch. Then use a yarn needle to weave your end in. Block your piece according to the type of yarn used. You may also find that a stitch marker is great to help keep track of the number of squares as well as the beginning of each row too. These are both basic stitches that are easy to learn and fast to work up.

If I were you, I’d create a small swatch, maybe something that’s just about 4 rows of c2c. Then I’d measure that to see how wide and tall each of your boxes is. That can give you an idea of how many boxes you’ll need to fill 40×40″. You’ll increase by one tile per diagonal row until your desired dimension are reached then you’ll begin decreasing. Graph patterns typically begin in the bottom right corner, regardless of if you’re right or left handed. In the middle of each row, you’ll chain 2 instead of 3 to create a new tile.

It’s important to stay organized so that your strands of yarn don’t get tangled as you work. There are a few different ways that you can change colors on C2C crochet. But for the most part, you’ll change colors just like you would in any other crochet project. The graph will have numbers along all four sides to help you keep track of what row you’re on. I like to draw diagonal lines through the chart as I finish each row to help me keep track of what I’ve already crocheted.

C2C patterns usually include some combination of a graph pattern and, often, written instructions. The graph helps you visualize what the corner to corner pattern looks like as a whole. You can think of the graph pattern like a crochet “map.” When you’re corner to corner crocheting, you’re technically using a stitch called the Diagonal Box stitch. The diagonal box stitch can be worked using double crochet or half double crochet stitches. As we are not done with the 2nd diagonal row yet, you will crochet a chain of 3 and crochet 3 dc’s in the same chain space where you placed your slip stitch.

Highlight or underline the row you’re working on so that it’s easy to see where you are in the pattern. Or, cross out each row as you finish working it. Pull the new color of yarn through the last two loops on the hook.